Broome or Bust

We spent the morning at Araluen Arts Centre in Alice Springs, part of the Araluen Cultural Precinct of galleries, theatres, museums and a sculpture park. We were thrilled to see an exhibition featuring the work of Albert Namatjira and other works from its permanent collection, including two from John Wolseley, one of Gayle’s favourite artists.  Albert Namatjira (1902–1959) is almost certainly Australia’s most famous Aboriginal artist and became renowned for his ability to embody his country using watercolours in a way not seen before. Namatjira had the unique capacity to grasp the light, vivid colour, beauty and even the essence of Central Australia and capture the imagination of many. Albert Namatjira, Mount Sonder with Corkwood Tree 1944 Clifford Tjapaltjarri Possum, Mulga seed Tjukurpa 1983 Emily Kam Kngawarray Awely 1992 John Wolseley Map of 32 days, 17 August – 17 September 1978, Palm Creek, Northern Territory 1980 We'll be back at Araluen tomorrow to take in the other venues ...

Today we are on the lands of the Arrernte people. Before leaving Daly Waters Pub on Thursday morning, Chops was at last able to get into the driver's seat Last night we camped at Banka Banka Station, an Indigenous owned pastoral property. As we have found throughout most of  Northern Australia, there was no mobile coverage, so we couldn't publish a blog. Even with the  Telstra esims we have bought, coverage is still very patchy.  We had an unpowered site, but we can run our fridge on gas and the lights on 12 volts off the caravan battery, so we are very comfortable. ... the little caravan at the back of Banka Banka Station Today we have driven more than 600 km to Alice Springs. We were planning to spend the night at Wauchope, but the very dusty and unshaded roadhouse caravan park was totally unappealing.  Tomorrow we will check out Alice Spring's galleries. Devils Marbles - on the road to Alice Springs Red dust willy-willy Tropic of Capricorn Leaving the Tropical Nor...

Today we are on the lands of the Jingiti people. Farewelling Elizabeth and Ian at Katherine this morning we then travelled south down Highway 1 to spend the night at Daly Waters. One thing we noticed yesterday was the deterioration in road surface in the Northern Territory compared to Western Australia. No doubt mining royalties maintaining roads buy loyalties. Daly Waters is a few kilometres off Highway 1 and the Daly Waters Pub is probably an iconic stop for the caravan set. It is quirky, either real or manufactured. It's fun for an overnight stop with wandering donkeys, crocs, emus and old machines. "Actually, I wouldn't mind a cold beer." Eddie the Emu was a rescue emu No idea why they are in the caravan park! ... or why this is on the roof. Lyn 21 August 2024 at 21:19 Looks like a long way to go. Bon Voyage  REPLY Jenny 26 August 2024 at 19:18 Just catching up on the blog, fantastic descriptions and photos. Really enjoying your trip vicariously!

Today we are on the land of the Jawoyn, Dogamen, Walpiri and Wardaman peoples. We were caught out by the time zone change from Western to Central yesterday and after quite a long drive from Kununurra to Katherine, we just didn't get around to posting. Kununurra to Katherine is as scenic and dramatic as Halls Creek to Kununurra. Burning off in the distance ... and not so far away At a roadside stop We had an enjoyable visit to the Didj Gallery, and made our contributions to the Katherine economy. Today is our last day with Ian and Elizabeth. Tomorrow they travel north to Darwin. We are turning south to Daly Waters, beginning the last leg of our journey back to Melbourne. And because Gayle took such fantastic photos on the Ord River, here are a couple extra ones "Be that as it may, it can still be a long wait for dinner." Lyn 20 August 2024 at 20:57 How are you feeling about the return journey? Is Chops enthusiastic? He seems to be getting some nap time.  REPLY Marama 21 Au...

This afternoon Ian, Elizabeth and Gayle sailed on the Ord River, which was dammed in 1963 for what has turned out to be a largely failed agriculture irrigation scheme. The river environment was significantly altered but still has its beauty including its flora and fauna. Perhaps it's not a smile after all. (Gayle's camera has a very powerful zoom lens) This is called a Jesus Bird, because it appears to walk on water. Sea-eagle Cat Fish The dam wall that created Lake Argyle There are two signs at the Kununurra Marina about the damming of the Ord River. Diversion Dam - Impact on Indigenous Culture:  The Diversion Dam was built on a rock bar called Darram in the language of the Miriwoong people, the traditional owners of this land. This site has been of cultural significance to the Miriwoong since the time of creation (sometimes known as "Dreamtime"). According to an ancient story, the white crane (jalareng) was fishing in the river but it was hard to catch the fish, so ...

Today we are on the lands of the Miriwoong/ Gajerrong people. We left Warmun this morning after a couple of days of absorbing life in this remote, mainly indigenous, community. From our perspective life seems hard here, but for the locals we talked to it is home.  Warmun Roadhouse and Caravan Park is typical of many of the roadhouses which dot Highway 1 - fuel, food and a caravan site. The drive from Warmun to Kununurra is breathtaking and photos shot through the windows of our car cannot, of course, relay the grandeur. But Gayle, our ace photographer has done pretty well all the same. One of a group of four wild horses by the roadside Boab trees are everywhere and in Warmun we were shown how to eat the soft, cake-like fruit inside the seed. Boab tree Elizabeth and Ian returned from their overnight at the Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater National Park. The Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater is the second largest meteorite crater in the world. It was formed by a massive meteorite sm...

A quiet day today at Warmun Roadhouse, giving us the opportunity to make arrangements for the next couple of weeks. We wandered around near the caravan park, appreciating the colour changes of the nearby hills during the course of the day.  Bougainvillea at the caravan park By the track Late in the day, the hills become more purple and orange At the Warmun Art Centre we had the  privilege of chatting with three artists who produced work for exhibit at the Centre. Many of the artists at Warmun use locally found ochres, ground and mixed with water. We were pretty tempted by quite a few of the artworks, but decided to go and have a think before we spent all the petrol money. Chatting with the artist Peter Thomas We're back on the road tomorrow rejoining Elizabeth and Ian and asking them all about the meteorite site at Wolfe Creek where they have been for the last couple of days. Pat J 17 August 2024 at 08:41 Good to see you are enjoying the Kimberley with its magnificent grandeur...